Crown Shy - Must Try or Must Not?

Anyone who knows me is aware of my passion for exceptional dining experiences. I don't just savor the flavors on the plate; it's the entire journey from the moment I step into the restaurant until my final bite of dessert. So when the decision was made to celebrate a friend's birthday at Crown Shy, I was genuinely excited. The restaurant had received great reviews, with TimeOut ranking it as October 2023's second-best restaurant in NYC, New York Magazine giving it an 86 rating, and the Michelin Guide awarding it a coveted star.

Setting the Scene

Upon arrival and a quick check-in with the host, I was promptly seated even before the rest of our party arrived, a service I always appreciate. The restaurant's layout was well-designed, with the bar cleverly separated from the main dining area. It exuded a cozy ambiance with dim, low lighting, and a solitary candle on each table, creating an intimate atmosphere. However, the subdued lighting made reading their quite compact menu difficult. I grudgingly resorted to using my phone's flashlight to read it clearly (I'll delve further into the menu shortly). Despite the inviting ambiance, the high ceilings and lack of acoustic insulation meant that conversation from neighboring tables filled the room, making it somewhat challenging to hear our server. We resorted to a modified game of telephone, having the person closest to him relay his messages. While some might appreciate the contemporary vibe, I couldn't help but wonder if it clashed with my preference for a more relaxed dining experience.

The Cuisine

Let's begin with the appetizers. We opted for the Gruyere Fritters with Chili and Lime, as well as the Scallops with Pomelo, Pistachio, and Dashi. Both dishes were delightfully tasty. The fritters were fried to a crisp, golden brown, with the chili and lime providing a nice counterbalance to the saltiness. The scallops, enhanced by the dashi, delivered on their promise, melting gracefully in our mouths. The combination of sweet and sour from the pomelo, along with the subtle crunch of pistachio, beautifully complemented the scallops.

Despite our initial instincts, we followed our server's recommendations and ordered the Grilled Citrus-Marinated Chicken with Crown Shy Hot Sauce and the Pork Katsu with Brussel Sprouts and Apples, deciding not to go for the Roasted Short Rib with Yucca and Lahoh Pancake. Regrettably, the dishes fell short of our expectations for a restaurant described by the Michelin Guide as an "undeniable feast for the senses." At $43 per dish, we anticipated more flavor and less oil. Thankfully, the Mafaldine with Chanterelles and Kohlrabi saved the day. The sweet and spicy notes of the Kohlrabi provided the savory satisfaction we craved after the underwhelming earlier courses.

Dessert, however, was redeeming. The Sticky Toffee Pudding for Two, with Pecan and Apple Sorbet, and the Sticky Bun with Vanilla Ice Cream, proved rich and flavorful. Though they arrived in deceptively small portions, they were surprisingly filling. Each of us had our favorites, but for this writer, the Honeycomb and Satsuma Ice Cream was the standout. I don't typically have a sweet tooth, but I will give kudos to the dessert chef. The combination of textures, the play of sweet and sour tastes, and the crunch of the toffee pudding or the honeycomb paired with the tartness of the ice cream elevated each unique flavor.

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The Scarlett List Verdict... ❤️❤️❤️🤍🤍

With a smaller menu, one would expect a more curated selection with a heightened creative focus on each item. While Crown Shy's elegant and unpretentious interior, along with its enjoyable appetizers and desserts, provided some relief, the overall experience left much to be desired. Perhaps a return visit for brunch or an exploration of their other dinner options might change my present sentiment. For now, I'm leaning towards waiting until they unveil a new seasonal menu, possibly in the spring.

Would I recommend it to friends? Yes, but with a caveat - only to those who are avid fans of James Kent and wish to dine at one of his establishments.

Crown Shy

70 Pine St, New York, NY 10005